Pokhara: A Calm, Unhurried Guide to the Lake City

Pokhara is where most visitors to Nepal slow down. It sits beside Phewa Lake at about 822 m, a good deal warmer and calmer than Kathmandu, and on a clear morning the Annapurna range stands right above the town, with the sharp summit of Machhapuchhre (6,993 m) in the middle. It is the starting point for the Annapurna treks and helicopter flights, but it is also a place worth a few unhurried days in its own right.

This guide covers how to get there, where to stay, what to do, and when to go, with a quieter, more comfortable traveller in mind. Luxury Retreats Nepal is an independent travel company; we plan private trips that include Pokhara and the hotels mentioned here.

Where Pokhara is and how to get there

Pokhara lies about 200 km west of Kathmandu, in a green valley in the middle hills of Nepal. There are two sensible ways to reach it:

• By air: the flight from Kathmandu takes about 25 minutes, with mountain views on the right-hand side on a clear day. Flights run several times a day and are the easiest choice.
• By road: the drive takes most of a day on a winding hill road, usually around 6 to 8 hours with stops. A private car makes it bearable, but most of our guests fly.

Pokhara International Airport opened on 1 January 2023, but it has very few regular international flights so far. In practice, almost everyone arrives on a domestic flight from Kathmandu.

The two sides of Pokhara

Lakeside is the busy strip along the eastern shore of Phewa Lake, with cafés, shops, boat jetties and most of the hotels. It is lively and convenient, and in the evening it can be noisy.

The quiet edges are where we usually place our guests. The ridges above the lake, the far shore and the countryside around the valley have small lodges and resorts with long views and real calm, a short drive from town. You can enjoy Lakeside for a meal or a walk, then go back to silence.

Where to stay

Pokhara's best stays are small properties rather than big hotels. A few we know well:

• The Pavilions Himalayas, The Farm: private villas on an organic farm in a valley outside town, with a spa and an infinity pool. It is the base for our Pavilions Himalayas farm retreat.
• Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge: stone cottages on a ridge east of the valley, with wide views of the Annapurnas and a strong environmental record.
• Fish Tail Lodge: a long-established hotel on its own peninsula in Phewa Lake, reached by a short raft ferry.
• Temple Tree Resort and Spa: a comfortable, quieter choice at the southern end of Lakeside.
• Sarangkot Mountain Lodge: a small lodge on the Sarangkot ridge, made for sunrise.

We will publish a full, honest comparison of Pokhara's hotels soon. For now, the short version: stay on a ridge or outside town if you want peace, and on the lake if you want to walk everywhere.

What to do in Pokhara

• Phewa Lake by boat. Take a painted wooden boat across to the small Tal Barahi temple on its island, ideally early in the morning when the water is still.
• World Peace Pagoda. A white Buddhist stupa at about 1,100 m on the ridge south of the lake, inaugurated in 1999. Cross the lake by boat and walk up through the forest in about an hour, or drive most of the way. The view back over the lake to the mountains is one of the best in Pokhara.
• Sarangkot at sunrise. The classic viewpoint: you drive up in the dark and watch first light reach Dhaulagiri, the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhre.
• International Mountain Museum. Opened in 2004, it tells the story of the Himalaya, its peoples and its climbers. Worth an hour or two, especially on a cloudy day.
• Pumdikot. A large Shiva statue on a hill above the lake, with another fine view of the range.
• Paragliding. Pokhara is one of the best-known places in Asia for tandem paragliding, launching from Sarangkot and landing by the lake.
• Begnas and Rupa lakes. Two quieter lakes east of the city, good for a calm walk or a boat away from the crowds.
• A spa afternoon. After a trek or a helicopter morning, many guests simply rest. Most of the better hotels have good spas.

Pokhara as a base for the mountains

Pokhara is the gateway to the Annapurna region. From here you can:

• Fly by helicopter to Annapurna Base Camp for breakfast and be back before lunch, as on our Annapurna Base Camp Helicopter Tour.
• Walk for a few days through Gurung villages to Ghandruk and Poon Hill on our Luxury Annapurna Trek.
• Spend a night at a mountain lodge in Dhampus, as on our Kathmandu, Pokhara and Dhampus journey.
• Join a yoga retreat by the lake on our Yoga Retreat in Pokhara.

When to go

• October and November: the best time. Clear skies, mountain views most mornings, warm days.
• March and April: also good, with rhododendrons in flower in the hills, though afternoons can be hazy.
• December to February: cool, clear mornings and few visitors. Bring a warm layer for sunrise at Sarangkot.
• June to September: the monsoon. Pokhara is one of the wettest places in Nepal, and the mountains are often hidden in cloud, though the valley is very green.

For the whole country month by month, see when to visit Nepal.

How long to stay

Two nights is the minimum to enjoy Pokhara without rushing: one day on the lake and the ridges, and one free morning for sunrise or a spa. Three or four nights works well if you add a helicopter flight to Annapurna Base Camp or a short walk into the hills.

Frequently asked questions

Is it better to fly or drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara?

For most of our guests, fly. The flight takes about 25 minutes; the drive usually takes 6 to 8 hours on a busy, winding road. We arrange a private car only when guests want to stop along the way.

Can you see the mountains from Pokhara?

Yes, on clear days, especially in the morning. The Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre rise directly above the valley. From June to September clouds often hide them.

Is Pokhara good for a relaxing holiday?

Very. With a hotel away from the busy part of Lakeside, Pokhara is one of the calmest places in Nepal to rest between more active days.

Do I need a permit to visit Pokhara?

No permit is needed for Pokhara itself. Walks and flights into the Annapurna Conservation Area, such as Dhampus, Ghandruk or Annapurna Base Camp, need an ACAP permit, which we arrange for you.

Which of your trips include Pokhara?

Many of them, from our Annapurna treks and helicopter tours to the Golden Triangle journey and our honeymoon trips. Tell us your dates and we will suggest the right one.