Bhaktapur: the old royal city, and where to stay

Bhaktapur is one of the three historic royal cities of the Kathmandu Valley, alongside Kathmandu and Patan. It sits in the eastern corner of the valley, about 13 km from Kathmandu, and its brick squares, carved windows and tiered temples are still part of daily life. Potters work in the open squares, and the great festivals are celebrated by the city's own residents.

This guide explains what you are looking at, how the entry ticket works, when to go and where to stay if you want to see the city early in the morning and again in the evening.

A short history of the old royal city

Bhaktapur's founding is traditionally credited to King Ananda Deva in the 12th century, and the city served as the capital of the Malla kings until 1482, when the valley split into three rival kingdoms: Bhaktapur, Kathmandu and Patan. Each kingdom had its own royal palace and square, which is why the valley has three Durbar Squares so close together. Bhaktapur was annexed by the Gorkha Kingdom in 1769.

Today it is a compact town at about 1,401 m with a population of 79,136 at the 2021 census, around 90% of them Newar. Nepal Bhasa, the Newar language, is spoken alongside Nepali, and the city keeps its own dialect. Bhaktapur Durbar Square is one of the seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site, inscribed by UNESCO in 1979.

The city has been hit hard by earthquakes. The 1934 earthquake destroyed the top floor of the royal palace and several temples, some of which, such as the Lapan Dega temple, were never rebuilt. The earthquake of 25 April 2015 damaged 116 heritage sites in the city. Much has been restored since, and the small Silu Mahadeva temple in Durbar Square was rebuilt in the form it had before 1934.

The four squares you should not miss

The old town is compact and best explored on foot. Four open spaces structure a visit.

Durbar Square

This is the old palace square and the first place most visitors arrive. Look for:

• The Palace of Fifty-five Windows, commissioned by King Bhupatindra Malla and completed in 1708. Its carved wooden façade is the least altered in the square.
• The Golden Gate, a gilded doorway built between 1751 and 1754 and paid for by King Ranajit Malla. It leads to the inner courtyards of the former palace and the shrine of the goddess Taleju.
• The Yaksheshvara temple, consecrated in 1484 by Karpura Devi and dedicated to her husband, King Yaksha Malla. Locals call it the "Pashupati of Bhaktapur" for its likeness to the great Shiva temple in Kathmandu (see our Pashupatinath guide).
• The stone Siddhi Lakshmi temple of 1695, noted for its carved stone figures of people and animals, including horses, camels and rhinoceroses.

Taumadhi Square

A short walk south-east brings you to Taumadhi, dominated by the Nyatapola, a five-roofed temple completed in 1702 under Bhupatindra Malla. It is usually described as the tallest pagoda temple in Nepal, and it came through both the 1934 and 2015 earthquakes. Its stairway is lined with pairs of stone guardians: two legendary wrestlers at the bottom, then elephants, lions, griffins and finally two goddesses. The goddess inside, Siddhi Lakshmi, is not shown to the public, and only the temple's own priests enter.

Beside it stands the Bhairavnath temple, home to the god whose chariot is pulled through the streets at the spring festival.

Dattatreya Square (Tachupal)

Further east, the Dattatreya temple is generally dated to the 15th century and is attributed to the reign of Yaksha Malla. A popular story says it was built from the timber of a single tree, though that is best taken as legend. Around the square stand old priests' houses. One of them, the Pujari Math, is now a woodcarving museum, and on its outer wall is the famous Peacock Window, a 15th-century carving that many people consider the finest piece of woodwork in Nepal. It is in a narrow lane beside the museum, so ask if you cannot find it.

The pottery squares

Bhaktapur has two pottery areas. The better known, at Talako, is a few minutes' walk south of Durbar Square and close to Taumadhi, and there is another at Suryamadhi, east of Dattatreya Square. Families shape the local black clay on wheels and set pots out to dry in the open centre of the square. Photography is fine, but ask before taking pictures of the potters themselves.

Tickets, fees and practical details

Bhaktapur Municipality charges an entry fee to foreign visitors for the whole historic city, not for each square. From 17 July 2025 the rates are:

• Visitors from outside SAARC countries: NPR 2,000 or US$15
• SAARC nationals and Chinese nationals: NPR 500 (Chinese visitors must show their passport)
• Nepali citizens: free

A few practical points:

• Staying longer than a day. If you plan to return, ask when you buy your ticket to have it extended. Extensions run for a maximum of seven days. For repeated visits beyond that, the Tourist Information Centre in Durbar Square issues a visitor pass, which needs an application form, two passport photos, copies of your passport and visa, and the original ticket.
• Keep your ticket with you. There are 14 entry points into the old town, and tickets are checked.
• Museums are extra. The woodcarving museum in the Pujari Math has its own small fee, and the same museum ticket covers the National Art Museum and the Brass and Bronze Museum.
• On foot. The old centre is best seen on foot and much of it is closed to ordinary traffic, so wear comfortable shoes for brick paving and steps.

Fees are set locally and do change, so it is worth confirming the current rate before you go. On our Sacred Kathmandu Valley tour and our Nagarkot retreat, entry fees are included.

Getting there and how much time to give it

Bhaktapur is close to Kathmandu's international airport (The Nanee, in the old town, gives the distance as 11 km). By car from central Kathmandu the drive usually takes 30 to 60 minutes, depending on traffic.

Many people see Bhaktapur as a day trip. That works, and it is a popular choice: Bhaktapur Municipality counted 244,868 foreign visitors in the 2024/25 fiscal year. If you can, give it a night, so you can walk the squares early in the morning and again in the evening.

Do not leave without trying juju dhau, the "king of yoghurts". It is made from buffalo milk and served in small clay bowls made by the city's own potters. Look for it in the shops near Dattatreya Square.

When to visit and the festivals

The clear, dry months of October to November and March to April are the most comfortable for walking. Bhaktapur can be visited all year, though the monsoon months are wetter. Our guide to when to visit Nepal sets out the seasons month by month.

Two festivals are worth planning around if your dates are flexible:

• Biska Jatra, in April around the Nepali New Year, is Bhaktapur's great spring festival. The chariot of Bhairava is hauled through the streets in a tug of war between the upper and lower halves of the town, and a tall wooden pole, about 25 m high, is raised and then pulled down on the eve of the New Year.
• Sa Paru (Gai Jatra), in August or September, is the festival that remembers those who died during the year. Families carry decorated bamboo frames, called taha-macha, along a set route, followed by music, dancing and street satire.

Exact dates follow the lunar and solar calendars, so check them when you book.

Where to stay in Bhaktapur

We know of no five-star hotel inside the old town. The best places are small, built in the Newar style and within a few minutes' walk of the squares. Luxury Retreats Nepal is an independent travel company; we are not owned by any of the hotels below.

• The Nanee is the most polished choice. It has 18 rooms and suites around courtyards in Itachhen, about two minutes' walk from Durbar Square. The design mixes traditional Newar brick and wood with clean modern interiors and local crafts, and there is a rooftop restobar. Meals focus on Newari cooking, including a chef's table. The Nepali Suite has a hot tub. There is no lift, because building rules inside the World Heritage Site do not allow one, though staff help with luggage.
• Hotel Heritage is a 25-room hotel built in the Newar tradition, about five minutes' walk from the old city, with a restaurant and a bar.

If you prefer more space, a spa or a pool, the alternative is to stay at a resort on the valley rim and visit Bhaktapur on the way. Our Nagarkot sunrise and hydrotherapy retreat does exactly this: a guided visit to Bhaktapur Durbar Square on the first day, then four nights at a villa resort on the ridge at Nagarkot, with a walk down to the ancient temple of Changu Narayan.

Visiting with Luxury Retreats Nepal

Bhaktapur fills the morning of day four of our Sacred Kathmandu Valley tour, followed by sunset from the valley rim at Nagarkot. The same tour includes Boudhanath at dawn (read our Boudhanath Stupa guide) and Pashupatinath at the evening aarti.

If you would like a night in Bhaktapur added to a longer journey, or a private guide for a slow day in the old town, get in touch and we will shape it around your dates.

Frequently asked questions

How much is the Bhaktapur entry fee?

Visitors from outside SAARC countries pay NPR 2,000 or US$15. SAARC and Chinese nationals pay NPR 500, and Nepali citizens enter free. These rates have applied since 17 July 2025; check locally, as fees can change.

Can I use my Bhaktapur ticket on more than one day?

Yes. Ask for an extension when you buy it; the maximum is seven days. For more than that, the Tourist Information Centre in Durbar Square can issue a visitor pass.

Is one day enough for Bhaktapur?

One day covers the four main squares at a comfortable pace. A night in the old town is better, because it lets you walk the squares early in the morning and in the evening.

How far is Bhaktapur from Kathmandu?

About 13 km east of the city, and close to the international airport. The drive usually takes 30 to 60 minutes depending on traffic.

What is the best area of Bhaktapur to stay in?

Stay inside or right beside the old town, so you can walk to the squares early and late. The Nanee, two minutes from Durbar Square, is a comfortable option inside the old town.

Is Bhaktapur worth visiting if I have already seen Kathmandu and Patan?

Yes. It is the smallest of the three cities, with its own squares, crafts and festivals, and the Nyatapola temple and the Peacock Window are among the finest sights in the valley.