Ghandruk: a Gurung village facing Annapurna South

Ghandruk is a large Gurung village on a steep green slope in the Annapurna foothills, about 32 km north-west of Pokhara. Stone houses, slate roofs and terraced fields fall away below it, and on a clear morning Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre fill the skyline to the north. It is one of the easiest places in Nepal to see village life and big mountains together without going to high altitude.

This guide covers what you will see, how to get there, when to go, where to stay and how Ghandruk fits into a comfortable private trip.

Where Ghandruk is, and why it matters

Ghandruk lies in Kaski District, in Annapurna Rural Municipality, above the Modi Khola river. The village climbs a steep hillside, so heights quoted for it range from about 1,940 m to 2,012 m depending on which part is measured. Either way it sits well below the height where altitude sickness is a common concern.

It is one of the most substantial and long-established Gurung settlements in Nepal. The Gurung people, who call themselves Tamu, have farmed these hills for generations, and Ghandruk has a long tradition of young men joining the Gurkhas in the British and Indian armies. Retired soldiers live in the village, and the link with the United Kingdom is still close: in February 2025 the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh ended their visit to Nepal in Ghandruk, a hill village with historic Gurkha links.

Ghandruk also has a special place in the history of conservation in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area, now Nepal's largest protected area at 7,629 sq km, began as a pilot programme of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) in Ghandruk in 1986. The idea was that local people would stay in the area, keep their traditional rights and help manage forests and tourism, rather than being moved out. Ghandruk still has one of ACAP's seven conservation offices.

What you see from the village

The mountain views are the first thing most visitors notice. From the upper village you look north up the Modi Khola valley towards:

• Annapurna South (7,219 m), the broad snow peak straight ahead, first climbed in 1964 by a team from the Kyoto University Alpine Club. Its Nepali name is Moditse.
• Hiunchuli (6,441 m), its neighbour, which is in fact an extension of Annapurna South.
• Machhapuchhre (6,993 m), the "Fishtail", the sharp peak that also stands above Pokhara.

The clearest views are usually early in the morning, before cloud builds up from the valleys. From much of the village you can watch the first light on Annapurna South without a pre-dawn climb.

Gurung houses, museums and village life

Ghandruk rewards slow walking. Stone paths and steps link the upper and lower parts of the village, past old stone houses with slate roofs, many of them more than a century old.

There are two small museums: the Old Gurung Museum and the Ghandruk Cultural Museum. Between them they show the everyday objects of Gurung life: jewellery, cooking pots and utensils, bamboo crafts, musical instruments and traditional clothing. A small entry fee is charged, and you can usually try on traditional Gurung dress for a photograph. A short visit to either gives useful context for everything else you see.

Other things worth doing:

• Walk the old village with your guide, who can explain how a Gurung house is laid out and how the terraces are farmed.
• Stop at a tea house and watch the village go about its day, with farmers at work on the terraces below.
• See a cultural evening if one is arranged: some lodges and village groups put on Gurung songs and dances for visitors.
• Try a Gurung meal: dal bhat, momos and other home cooking are widely served, and some homestays offer cooking lessons.

A few kind habits go a long way. Ask before photographing people, especially older villagers and anyone at a shrine. Do not walk into kitchens or houses unless you are invited. Dress modestly, and keep to the paths across the fields.

A village under change

Ghandruk is no longer remote. A road now reaches the lower village, and local reports in April 2026 counted about 80 hotels, including resorts, and 35 homestays. The same reports describe weekends as much busier than weekdays, with many Nepali visitors arriving now that the road is better.

The same reports quote a local ward chairman who is worried that rapid concrete construction is damaging the village's traditional character, and the rural municipality has said it plans a subsidy for houses built with traditional materials and craftsmanship. For a visitor, the practical advice is simple. Stay at least one night, walk the older upper lanes in the early morning and late afternoon, and choose a weekday if you can.

How to get to Ghandruk

Most journeys start in Pokhara, which is a short flight from Kathmandu. See our Pokhara guide for the lakeside city itself. From Pokhara you have two choices.

On foot. The classic approach is to drive to Nayapul on the Pokhara to Baglung highway and walk up the Modi Khola valley. From Birethanti, near Nayapul, the walk takes about 5 to 6 hours, climbing through terraced fields, partly on long stone steps, with a waterfall or two and tea stops along the way. It is steady rather than difficult, and arriving on foot is the best way to understand how the village sits in its valley.

By road. Local reports put the drive from Pokhara at about two hours, though rough sections and the weather can make it slower, and vehicles stop below the village, so there is still an uphill walk at the end. This suits guests who want one night in Ghandruk without a full trek.

Our Luxury Annapurna Trek: Ghandruk and Poon Hill takes the walking route. You start at Birethanti, spend your second night in Ghandruk, then continue through rhododendron and oak forest to Tadapani (2,630 m) and Ghorepani (2,860 m), climb Poon Hill (3,210 m) for sunrise, and finish with two nights in Pokhara. It is the gentlest of our treks, with 3 to 6 hours of walking a day, a private guide and porters.

Permits

Ghandruk is inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, so foreign visitors need an ACAP permit, whether they walk or drive. The official fee is NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals and NPR 1,000 for nationals of SAARC countries, including tax. Children under 10 do not need a permit. A permit bought at a check-post on the trail costs double, so arrange it in advance in Kathmandu or Pokhara, or online.

The ACAP permit is included and arranged for you on our Annapurna treks and on the Discover Annapurna journey.

When to go

Ghandruk can be visited all year, but the views and the walking change with the seasons:

• October and November: the clearest skies and the best chance of mountain views every morning. This is also the busiest time.
• March and April: the rhododendron forests above the village flower red and pink, days are warm, but afternoon haze often softens the views.
• December to February: quiet, cold at night and often clear. Bring warm layers for early mornings.
• June to September: the monsoon. The terraces are a vivid green, but cloud often hides the mountains, and the trails can be wet, with leeches in the forest.

For the whole country month by month, see our guide on when to visit Nepal.

Where to stay

Most accommodation in Ghandruk is in simple family lodges and guesthouses, with home cooking. Hot showers and battery charging are often available, sometimes for a small extra charge. A number of homestays let you stay with a Gurung family.

At the more comfortable end, Mountain Lodges of Nepal runs a small lodge just above the village, built in traditional style, with en-suite rooms and wide views of the Annapurnas. On our trek we book the best lodge in each village, with a private bathroom wherever there is one, and all meals.

Luxury Retreats Nepal is an independent travel company and is not part of Mountain Lodges of Nepal or any lodge named here.

Ghandruk on a comfortable trip

Ghandruk works well in several kinds of journey:

• As part of a short trek. Our Ghandruk and Poon Hill trek is eight days from Kathmandu and back, never sleeps higher than 2,860 m and ends with two restful nights in Pokhara.
• Without trekking. If you would rather not walk for several days, our Discover Annapurna journey shows the same foothills from the village of Dhampus, the ridge at Sarangkot and Phewa Lake, with a private helicopter breakfast at Annapurna Base Camp.
• With the high mountains. Ghandruk looks up the valley that leads to the Annapurna Sanctuary. Our Annapurna Base Camp trek with helicopter return starts with a jeep to Jhinu Danda, further up the valley, and a walk to Chhomrong, so it does not pass through Ghandruk itself, while our Annapurna Base Camp helicopter tour flies you from Pokhara into the sanctuary for breakfast and back to Pokhara the same morning.

If you would like Ghandruk added to a longer journey, or simply a night there with a good guide, tell us your dates and we will suggest the best way to include it.

Frequently asked questions

How high is Ghandruk?

Ghandruk spreads over a steep slope, and the heights quoted for it range from about 1,940 m to 2,012 m. That is well below the height where altitude sickness usually becomes a concern, so most visitors feel no effect at all.

Can you drive to Ghandruk?

Yes. A road now reaches the lower village, and local reports put the drive from Pokhara at about two hours, though conditions vary. There is still an uphill walk from where vehicles stop. Many guests prefer to walk in from Birethanti, which takes about 5 to 6 hours.

Do I need a permit to visit Ghandruk?

Yes. Ghandruk is inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, so foreign visitors need an ACAP permit (NPR 3,000, or NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals; children under 10 free). It costs double if bought at a check-post, so arrange it in advance. On our Annapurna treks it is included.

How many days do I need?

One night is enough to see the village, the museums and a sunrise over Annapurna South. Many visitors come as part of a longer walk, such as our eight-day Ghandruk and Poon Hill trek, which spends a full night in Ghandruk on the way to Tadapani and Ghorepani.

Is Ghandruk suitable for families and older travellers?

Generally yes. The altitude is modest and the village itself is compact, though its stone steps are steep in places. If a multi-day walk is not right for you, a night in Ghandruk by road, or a gentler foothill trip such as Discover Annapurna, gives a good taste of the region.