Swayambhunath: the Monkey Temple above Kathmandu

Swayambhunath sits on a wooded hill on the western edge of Kathmandu, and from many parts of the city you can see its white dome and gilded spire. Visitors have known it as the Monkey Temple since at least the 1970s. For the Newar Buddhists of Kathmandu it is something far older and more personal: one of their most sacred places and part of their daily religious life.

This guide explains what you are looking at, how to reach the top without the steepest climb, when to go, and how to behave kindly in a place that is very much in use.

Where it is and why it matters

Swayambhunath stands on a hillock about 3 km west of central Kathmandu, according to the Nepal Tourism Board. The name means "self-existent" or "self-arising", a reference to the legend at the heart of the site.

It matters for several reasons at once:

• UNESCO lists it as one of the seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site, inscribed in 1979, and describes it as including the oldest Buddhist monument in the valley.
• For Newar Buddhists it is among the three most sacred pilgrimage places, and much of its art follows the Vajrayana tradition of Newar Buddhism.
• For Tibetan Buddhists it is second in importance only to Boudha, which we cover in our Boudhanath Stupa guide.
• Hindus also worship here. Hindu shrines and deities share the hilltop with Buddhist ones, and you will see both communities walking the same circuit.

The legend of the lake and the lotus

The Swayambhu Purana, a Buddhist text, tells that the Kathmandu Valley was once a great lake. A Buddha of an earlier age planted a lotus seed in it, and the flower that grew gave off a light that seemed to arise by itself. The bodhisattva Manjushri later cut a gorge through the hills with his sword, at a place now called Chobhar, the water drained away, and the hill with its light was left standing. A stupa was then built over the light to protect it.

Scientists have found that the valley really did hold a lake long ago, known to them as Paleo Kathmandu Lake, which gives the story an appealing echo. You do not need to take a view on any of this to enjoy the place, but it explains why the stupa sits exactly where it does, and why Manjushri appears so often in the art around you.

A short history

The early dates are uncertain, and different sources give different reigns. The Nepal Tourism Board links the stupa to the Licchavi king Manadeva in the fifth century and says that by the 13th century it was an important Buddhist centre. Chronicles and a damaged stone inscription record rebuilding by early kings.

Later chapters are clearer:

• In 1504 the Tibetan teacher Tsangnyön Heruka renovated the stupa at the invitation of the king of Kathmandu.
• In the 17th century King Pratap Malla built the long eastern stairway, and two white shikhara temples beside the stupa, known as Pratappur and Anantapur.
• A full renovation ran from June 2008 to May 2010, the first major one since 1921. The renovation, funded by the Tibetan Nyingma Meditation Center of California, regilded the stupa's metalwork using 20 kg of gold.
• The complex was damaged in the April 2015 earthquake. Pratappur and Anantapur were badly hit and have since been rebuilt by the Department of Archaeology, and by late 2018 the site's management committee reported that 19 monuments in the area had been restored.

Today the site is looked after by a local management and conservation committee, with support from the Department of Archaeology.

What you are looking at

The stupa follows the same basic plan as Boudhanath, but it stands on a crowded hilltop, which gives it a very different feeling.

• The dome. In Vajrayana teaching, Swayambhu represents the void from which the universe arises. The white dome at the base is surrounded by five meditating Buddhas.
• The eyes. Above the dome, a gilded cube is painted on each side with the eyes of the Buddha, looking out in all four directions over the valley.
• The thirteen rings. The gilded tiers of the spire are known as the "thirteen steps", representing the stages on the path to enlightenment.
• The vajra. At the top of the eastern stairway, the first thing you meet is a large gilded vajra, or thunderbolt, one of the central symbols of Vajrayana Buddhism.
• Pratappur and Anantapur. The two tall white towers beside the stupa, rebuilt after 2015.
• The Hariti temple. A small pagoda near the stupa honours Hariti, a goddess seen as a protector of children. Legend says she was a fierce ogress until the Buddha converted her.
• Prayer wheels and small shrines. Prayer wheels line the circuit around the stupa and much of the foot of the hill, and numerous small chaityas, shrines and statues, along with several monasteries, fill the hilltop.

Behind the main platform, on a smaller rise, is a shrine to Manjushri, who is also worshipped there as Saraswati, the goddess of learning.

The monkeys

The monkeys, rhesus macaques, live on the hill and move freely around the stupa, the stairs and the stalls. A playful local story says they grew from the lice in Manjushri's hair.

They are part of the place, but they are wild animals and expert thieves:

• Keep food, drinks and plastic bags out of sight, and close your bag.
• Do not feed them. It changes their behaviour and makes them bolder with the next visitor.
• Hold on to sunglasses and phones near the railings, and give mothers with young a wide berth.
• If one grabs something, let it go rather than pull.

How to get there, and how to avoid the steep climb

There are three ways up:

• The eastern stairway. This is the classic approach, a long, steep flight of stone steps often said to number 365, lined with Buddha statues and stone animals. It is beautiful, but it is a real climb, with iron handrails on the steepest part near the top.
• By car to the south-west entrance. A road circles the hill to an entrance on the south-west side, leaving only a short walk to the main platform. This is the easier choice if you would rather avoid the climb, and we are happy to arrange it.
• A quieter stairway. A less used flight of steps joins the approach to the same south-west entrance.

A pleasant compromise is to drive up, walk the hilltop, and then walk down the eastern stairway, which is easier on the lungs than on the knees. Near the western foot of the hill, beside the Ring Road, Amideva Buddha Park has three very large golden statues, of the Buddha Shakyamuni, Chenrezig and Guru Rinpoche, and is worth a short stop.

Foreign visitors pay an entrance fee at a ticket booth. Published amounts differ between sources, so carry some small rupee notes and check at the booth. On both of the tours described below, the fee is included. Most visitor sources give the opening hours as sunrise to sunset.

When to go

• Early morning is when local devotees walk the circuit and turn the prayer wheels. It is the best time to feel the place as a living temple.
• Late afternoon to dusk brings softer light and the view across the valley as lamps come on in the city below.
• Season. The dry months from October to April bring the most settled weather, with the clearest views usually before spring haze builds. The monsoon, June to September, brings greener hills but more cloud. Our guide to when to visit Nepal explains each season in detail.

Festivals

• Buddha Jayanti, the Buddha's birthday, brings the largest crowds of the year. In 2027 it falls on Thursday 20 May.
• Gunla, a holy month for Newar Buddhists that usually falls around August, sees groups of devotees climb to Swayambhu early every morning, playing traditional devotional music as they go.

Festival days are wonderful but crowded. If you prefer calm, come on an ordinary morning.

Visiting with respect

• Walk clockwise around the stupa, prayer wheels and shrines, as the devotees do.
• Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. Remove shoes and hats where asked, especially inside monasteries and shrines.
• Ask before photographing people, especially monks, nuns and anyone at prayer. Do not photograph inside shrines where signs ask you not to.
• Do not touch offerings, butter lamps or ritual objects, and do not sit on chaityas or statues.
• Keep your voice low near people praying.

Seeing Swayambhunath with us

Luxury Retreats Nepal is an independent travel company. On our Sacred Kathmandu Valley luxury tour, the first afternoon ends at Swayambhunath at dusk, with a scholar guide, before the following days take in Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, Patan and Bhaktapur. On the Luxury level you stay at Dwarika's Hotel. Our Buddhist heritage tour to Lumbini also visits Swayambhunath at dusk, together with Kopan, Boudhanath and Namobuddha, before you fly south to the Buddha's birthplace.

If you are building your own days in the valley, Swayambhunath pairs well with our guides to Pashupatinath Temple, Bhaktapur and Lumbini. Tell us your dates and pace through our contact page and we will suggest a plan.

Frequently asked questions

Why is Swayambhunath called the Monkey Temple?

Because monkeys, rhesus macaques, live on the hill and roam the whole complex. Local legend says they grew from the lice in the hair of Manjushri, the bodhisattva who drained the valley's lake.

How many steps are there to Swayambhunath?

The eastern stairway is often said to have 365 steps. It is steep, especially near the top. You can avoid it by driving round to the south-west entrance, which leaves only a short walk.

How long should I spend at Swayambhunath?

Allow about two hours to walk the circuit, see the main shrines and enjoy the view. Allow more time if you want to sit quietly or add Amideva Buddha Park at the foot of the hill.

Is Swayambhunath a Buddhist or a Hindu temple?

It is mainly a Buddhist site, sacred to both Newar and Tibetan Buddhists, but Hindus worship there too, and Hindu shrines stand beside Buddhist ones.

What is the best time of day to visit?

Early morning, when local devotees walk the circuit, gives the strongest sense of a living temple. Late afternoon and dusk give the softest light and views over Kathmandu as the lamps come on.

Can I combine Swayambhunath with Boudhanath in one day?

Yes. It is easy to see one stupa in the morning and the other later in the day. Our Boudhanath Stupa guide covers the second stop.